Rolex Explorer II, ref 226570 (Black dial)

Rolex Explorer II is celebrated as a durable, functional and understated watch. Designed for cavers and polar explorers, its 24-hour hand and fixed bezel help distinguish day from night in environments with little or no sunlight, or indeed, constant sunlight. Introduced in 2021 to mark the model’s 50th anniversary, the current Rolex Explorer II Ref. 226570 features a contemporary design with several key updates.

On my 21cm wrist, I found the Explorer 2 to be very comfortable and balanced. Both the case and the Oyster bracelet it comes on, are made from Rolex’s own 904l steel. The bracelet comes with a 5mm microadjustment in the clasp which makes sizing very precise. The black dial is very easy to read and the white gold indices and hands really stand out and contrast from the dial. The increased 70 hour power reserve from the 3285 movement is gratefully received. For those who are not a fan of Oyster bracelets, and there are a few, the 22mm lug width allows for a large range of after market straps. The ability for the watch to simulaneously show the time in two different timezones is a welcome feature and one I use frequently. The ability for the hour hand to move forward or backward in hourly increments helps, and this can be done without stopping the second hand, allowing you to keep time accurately. However, pull the crown further out and the seconds do hack so you can precisely set your watch against a time source.

Key points:

• Case: The 42mm Oystersteel case has a slightly broader lug width at 22mm, than its predecessors 21mm, providing a more balanced feel on the wrist. It maintains a 100-meter water resistance rating.
• Dial: The watch is available with either a black or white (“Polar”) dial. The Polar version features a matte finish and black-framed indices and hands, while the black dial has polished white gold hands and indices. Both use Rolex’s proprietary Chromalight lume for enhanced legibility in low light.
• Bezel: It features a fixed, brushed stainless steel bezel with engraved black 24-hour numerals. This fixed bezel is a key differentiator from the rotating bezels found on the Rolex GMT-Master II.
• Hands: A standout orange, arrow-shaped 24-hour hand points to the bezel’s 24-hour scale. This hand allows you to track a second time zone or serve as a day/night indicator.
• Movement: The Calibre 3285 movement offers a 70-hour power reserve and a precision of -2/+2 seconds per day. The movement incorporates the more efficient Chronergy escapement for improved performance. and also includes a Paramagnetic blue Parachrom hairspring and high-performance Paraflex shock absorbers.
• Bracelet: It comes on a three-piece link Oyster bracelet with an Oysterlock safety clasp and the Easylink comfort extension link, allowing for tool-free 5mm adjustments. 

Pros and cons.

Pros

• Rugged functionality: Its fixed steel bezel and overall robust construction make it a true “tool watch” meant for adventure.
• Discreet aesthetic: The Explorer II is often seen as a more low-profile Rolex, flying under the radar compared to more recognizable models like the Submariner.
• Versatile design: Reviews frequently note its ability to be worn in both casual and more formal settings.
• GMT function: The ability to track a second time zone is a practical feature for frequent travelers.
• Distinct look: The white “Polar” dial with its black accents is an instantly recognizable and popular variant. 

Cons.

42mm size: For some, the 42mm case of the current Ref. 226570 is considered too large, a common critique highlighted by watch enthusiasts on Hodinkee.com.

No rotating bezel: The lack of a rotating bezel, unlike the GMT-Master II, limits its functionality for tracking a third time zone.

Less collectible history: Unlike the mythical “Steve McQueen” association with the first-generation Explorer II Ref. 1655, the current Explorer II lacks the same glamorous backstory.